Beiträge von leonlive

Wenn ist kein SRT mehr...

Motor auf Stratus ist besser dann Neon? ATM oder MTM?

Ich kenne mir Überhaupt nichts diese Motore(Engine)...

Bis ende auf diese Woche ichmuss entsheiden was für Auto ichmuss kaufen

Neon 2002, Sebring, Stratus oder... deine SRT.

Bin ich ganz sicher du schafst von 0-100km bis 6s, oder ein 2,7 Stratus is besser?

Ich kann dir geben nicht mehr auf 5000 -schwer, habe ich kein Möglichkeit mehr zu geben (Das Farbe ist Überhaupt kein mein still aber Auto kukt gut). Wen verratest du mir wie viel benzin gehen pro 100km -wenn mit 150km/h gehen.

Danke "Gnuserup" & "Legoman"!
Ja, das is genau meine Shift, aber alles funkzioniert da.
Es tut mir leid für die spätere aswer, aber ich bin in Deutschland.
Also Ich suche eine job jetzt

Can anybody tell me location of switcher ON/OFF of the Proximity (Distance)?
I suggest that is near by the Gear shift ("R" Pos.), because don't Turn ON...?
Or if have some relay or fuse...

Zitat von "Gnuserup"

hey - nice to hear from you again...

I think is was only the Shift Solenoid, but I put the new input and output sensor too from the same expeditor. The Seller is a Mopar Certified who sell me a little down than the MOPAR parts from a Mopar. The Mopar have a time to time also reduced prices but I don't catch them in time. This seller I find from a ebay. The Mopar Shift Solenoid price is about 170$ without transport & taxes. The Seller give this for a about 130$. For now is worked really better than before I have just changed and go to the highway to try it. Before I changed I clear the MIL and then dismounted the battery.

Also thanks a

Zitat

Legoman

for a suggestion & nice Upgrade.

I have changed the Shift solenoid pack: It's from Mopar with the new gasket and Input, also Output Sensor.
First I changed the Input & Output sensor -> nothing difference.
After changed with new Shift Solenoid pack -> The care begin shifting better than I buyed
When I tryed to repair the Sfift Solenoid pack I get this codes:
P176D $18, P1791 $18, P179C $18, P1791 $18, P179C $18, P0718 $10.
After changed with new original component the P1684 - code for battery is stay in memory.
Today is a 4 worked day
Work like a sharm.

Another Questions:
The sensor when I park is not worked (don't turn ON): First is worked not every time when I buy the car - now is completely off. I suggest that is a some contact where is go in "R" position, any other suggestions?
Thank's of all.

Thank's. In other words - > I wayting now for the new solenoid shift with input and output sensor from USA -> Will change all of them. Nothing to do - only go to spend money in near Supermaket

I can't do this because I still have this limp mode. Sometimes when I quick start engine and accelerate gently I see how the one shift is coming up, but after the idle is get low the engine continue in limp mode (like before). In all cases I have the MIL ON. I have "1", "3" & "D" positions - It's nothing happening when I go whatever in one of them. Also sometimes I hear the sound for limp mode 3-4 seconds after test when I start engine - sometimes after 10-15 sec when I go with auto in the streets, but always hear this sound.
So, How can I do this? OR if I however must to Do this, was this kickdown means? Must I drive with a below 40km/h and then cut of the gas pedal when Idle come near 0km (throttle idle come to 752)? -> and in this mode continue with the next gear...?

The Input sensor have a work's data and works, but don't catch near "0" like another Output sensor. Since I have the original Chrysler new Output sensor I done this logically with them.
Q: Have I must to go in service to Relearn my shift solenoid and all procedure or not?
When I cut the battery in the first 7 - 30s the "MIL" is not appear - after that the same think.
If I don't must go to relearn procedure with DRBIII in service where I can buy the quick with good price the INPUT SENSOR (I mean in Germany) ?
Any quick answer will be Welcome!

The Oil MS-9395 is an Conserving type Oil :). In my case I think this is the best choice.
So, I changed Motor Oil & filter. In the same time I changed the Transmission Oil and filter: Wait 2 days and pulled the bolts of tranny pane.
Then Dismantled all solenoid shift part by part-> found the one of 4 solenoids that's is burned: have no induction -> dismantled all entire coil and rebuild it again: coil was interrupted at the beginning - of course a hand job :mrgreen:
[Blockierte Grafik: http://sat-net.free.bg/files/Neon_2001_LE/4Shift%20Solenoid317k.jpg]
-> I found that is a specific resistance coil about 0,4mm d near = 1,7ohms aprox.
In my case in the "shift rebuild kit" for A604 from “Transtec” the new rings is a little bigger than my old! So, I used my olds (it's look no so bad).
The only one thing's is that in some place have a corrosion effect. But the old oil will do the job - in places like a garnish or like a parts of gasket silicon’s.
-> IF this is the original assembling --> it was bad assembling, because the gasket was in the middle of the hools of body: this mean in the middle of shift sollenoid too :mrgreen: . So, I put the new gasket in the best way .
-> Reattached the shift solenoid.
-> Do in the same time full flush with ATF+4: about 8L. ( I don't sure this is a good idea in the same time to do that, but...)
The first time when I go, I have no movement(pulling) like before when I entry into the "D" , "3" or "1" or "R" - So, worked like a sharm .
After 7 minutes the "MIL" is up again (limp mode).
This time the code appear is (used 2 different programs "obdz" and "Scan Master"):
P0718 - Input/Turbine Speed sensor "A" Circuit intermittent.
P1791, P179C, P176D, P1791.
Any suggestions? OR this is only the input sensor??

Kann mir jemand sagen das Öl MS-9395 -> Original für Chrysler, welche Art von Öl ist?
Ist das ist eine semi-synthetische, mineralische oder synthetische Öl?
EN
Can anyone tell me the oil MS-9395 -> original for Chrysler, what kind of oil is?
Is this is one semi-synthetic, Mineral, or Synthetic?
Danke.

Thank you for the link. Almost the "Pin 1" is not for me Pin 1, a Pin 4 -> because the Shift solenoid module is watched from a backside. However, not all module’s all the same, they fore can be the difference between the models.
I can't detach from the body because I have no gasket after this!
But the results in measurement is the same like mine.
Thanks’ for that.
The Oil from Germany is not arrived yet: but maybe I will order another 5L to do full refilling of transmission...since I see too many different answers about oil mix between ATF+3 & ATF+4.

Let me know if I get some risk If is mixed the ATF+3 & ATF+4?
Because I want to do a standart procedure not refill all, But I don't know what oil was inside!

Q.: (Frage)
When changing the automatic transaxle fluid and filter
Must I adjust the bands?
If yes, how? (In the Manual I can't find how).
Some calculations of my Neon LE 2001:
Note:
1. Don't Do this if you are not familiar with you Multimeter! For Do a similar jobs you Must to know what are you Errors in all bands of you Multimeter and the Power applied to the clamps(terminals) when you measure in "Diode" or similar circle mode!
2. Polarity of Battery must be totally unmounted(detach also the "+" polarity of Battery, Not only the "-" how it described in Manual!)!
3. You measurements must be in the interval of 2-3s, but to not exceed a max of 5s! (or depend of you Digital Multimeter used).
Measured(ohms)=Shift Solenoid (must detach connector plugins of course) without demounting from transaxle:
1(*)23=599; 1(*)4=299; 1(*)567=301; 1(*)8=336
4(*)123=299; 4(*)567=1,6; 4(*)8=37;
5(*)123=300; 5(*)678=38
8(*)765=38; 8(*)4=37; 8(*)123=336
Up side of solenoid:
2 1 8 7
3 4 5 6
The Solenoid must have near 2,5 ohms<=>It’s not broken electrically<=>but "magnet" can be or<=>some R who compound the scheme module. Scheme says that’s can be the OD(overdrive solenoid) or UD(underdrive): OD=S2=Pin6, UD=S1=Pin5. Since the limp is after 2 (about in second middle) S3(LRL/CC) & S4(24LR) is worked<=>OD&UD must been workable too.
Suggestions<=>Can be also the Fluid (or something in the way who don’t give to work solenoid - pressure f.e.).
But I don’t have the repair kit also, so, if I going to detach Shift solenoid module I must have almost one gasket after began polished! If I go to rebuild that suppose to order first<=>if go to the order<=>order new & original its better.
Attached Code reader say that “Shift B” it’s not worked with 3 different test programs(755).
Any suggestions will be Welcome for me. :idea:
I’m waiting for insomnia! :mrgreen:
(Transmission oil from Germany first 4,2L MOPAR ATF+4 must come this week)

Resolved problem with data link connector.
Q.:
Have two low liquids:
1. for hydraulics system: But I don't now which I must use, because also and smell no good! (But don't have any problem with hydraulics system!)
2. for system lubricant: I suppose to change also this, because in the bottom side of radiator have a little circuit to liquid who come from transmission and I don't know if they are changed or not.
-> For the second I suppose that is generic good antifreeze(HOAT).
Another Q.:
How I can change the full capacity of transmission oil, who must to be a near 8,1L with Torque Converter): can I use this method here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsdPAadc9fY

I do also some measurement test with my favorite "Black box" method and after I have the good manuals (thanks to "Gnuserup"). It is really a very good manuals - just to have time to read it :lol:
Today I will do some end-of probs.

I have no power of data link connector! PIN 16 is not linked with PIN 15 to "start" this connections. Any suggestions?

Ich weiß, warum einen Mini gekauft ist: haben für Frauen (oder ein). Oder sehen das "Italian Job"

The mass problem: the cabel in clutch for the mass was pulled off somehow and some corossion in klems... Sounds like this was not workable before - I buyed this auto without worked trunk lamp. Polished. Work's like a sharm.
Thanks the "Gnuserup" & "Legoman" for this. Wayting for the trans oil.
If any know where is exactly the TCM location for my car - want to take a one good look also there... ??

Zitat von "Gnuserup"

For the pan you could take a seal or a sealing compoud (like a "liquid" seal).

Many thank's. Going to buy quick from royalgas.